August 02, 2022

    Skincare for differences in skin color: Is there a difference? Skin is Skin, right? Part 1

    Skincare for differences in skin color: Is there a difference? Skin is Skin, right? Part 1

    A moisturizing, mattifying solution developed specifically for Black skin

    It’s high time for skincare products to offer effective ingredients that are designed to address the needs of Black skin.

    • Multicultural Beauty

    • Moisture and Mattification for Melanated Skin: A moisturizing, mattifying solution developed specifically for Black skin

    When Rihanna launched the now-iconic Fenty Beauty back in 2017, it dropped an unprecedented 40 shades of foundation for a diverse range of skin tones. An instant hit, the brand made $100 million in its first 40 days of sales, sending a resounding social message that reverberated around the beauty industry. It was dubbed “the Fenty effect.”

    Beauty brands such as L’Oréal, NARS, Tarte, and many others followed suit with more inclusive and personalized products. Skincare brands are now beginning to attend to this need.

    Consumers are calling for more personalized skincare that addresses issues unique to melanated skin. That’s a fancy way of saying we need targeted skincare ingredients and claims for Black consumers and all consumers of color.  Here at Private Label Skincare Florida are always in search of ways to help all consumers to find the finest products for all skin and hair types, and to provide cutting edge technology to our products for all types of hair and skin, and realize that there is a difference, and try not to treat every skin type as the same, which clearly it is not!!! 

    And it’s critical that products and ingredients proclaiming that they are for Black consumers are tested on and with Black consumers to demonstrate safety, efficacy, and acceptability. With all that in mind, let’s talk about formulating for healthy, hydrated, and all-around beautiful melanated skin.

    The cycle of shiny, yet dry, skin

    Black skin has specific physiological properties that impact its health and appearance. In particular, Black skin tends to have higher levels of sebum and lower levels of ceramides. This combination is what creates the conditions for skin that is simultaneously shiny (from the sebum) and dry from moisture loss (caused by lower levels of ceramides). The personal care industry is beginning to catch up to this fact. We here at Private Label Skincare Florida are on to this and have solved this problem.

    Hydration is, of course, a requirement for healthy skin. Beyond the physiological, factors such as climate, over-washing, and products formulated with the incorrect pH can all contribute to a loss of hydration in the skin. When Black skin is less hydrated, it compensates by over-producing sebum, which then leads to oily skin.

    The wrong skincare routine — in other words, one that is not adapted to the specific needs of Black skin — can feed into this rebound effect, reinforcing a seemingly never-ending cycle of dryness and oiliness.

    This led us to evaluate our portfolio search of two ingredients that would complement each other to help us deliver the desired results for Black skin: hydration and mattification.

    Instant, long-lasting hydration with minimized shine

    To promote minimized shine and hydration in Black skincare formulations, BASF developed a new blend of two of our active ingredients, mixed in just the right proportion. It is called “Moisture and Mattification for Melanated Skin,” a combination of two COSMOS-certified active ingredients – Hydagen® Aquaporin & Mat-XS™ Bright.

    Hydagen® Aquaporin provides immediate moisturization that lasts for 24 hours – outperforming glycerin. Particularly suited to dry, damaged skin, Hydagen® Aquaporin helps maintain proper skin barrier function and is 100% naturally derived.

    HYDAGEN® AQUAPORIN definition

    Booster of cellular water channels

    One of the fundamental processes of life is the transportation of water molecules through the surface layer of the cells. The structure of these channels has been clarified in the 1990s, and the corresponding proteins were named Aquaporins. The discovery of these water canals was awarded with the Nobel Prize in chemistry in 2003. BASF now makes one of the best-known Aquaporin-stimulating substances available to the broad cosmetic market: the active matter of Hydagen® Aquaporin is made of highly concentrated glyceryl glucoside. Clinical studies prove that Hydagen® Aquaporin boosts the moisturizing capacity of glycerin, for an instant and 24 hours hydration


    Shine from within (not on your skin)

    Working in tandem with Hydagen® Aquaporin, Mat-XS™ Bright is BASF’s solution for better mattification – that is, reduced shininess and oiliness in the skin. Sourced from the soothing orthosiphon flower originating in Java, Indonesia, Mat-XS™ Bright stems oily skin at the source.


    Critically, the formulation combining both ingredients was tested for efficacy on consumers who self-identify as Black. Our clinical study showed a 36% reduction in sebum, a 12% reduction in shine, and a 10% improvement in hydration after 14 days.


    The skincare industry is overdue in addressing the needs of Black consumers, and Private Label Skincare Florida hopes to help you expand your existing portfolio, or grow your product offering to be more personalized and inclusive products for people of color. This is a very healthy growth category of skincare, and if you are looking for a real niche product line, please call us today and let us help you launch an entire line of skin and hair care for melanated skin and hair care.   

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